Answer: Buy one of Mike Wilson's plan packs, stick it in the photo copier, a few mods and off you go, with the money saved purchase a Laser 240V and get plenty of vertical. Well nearly that simple so here is the story. The fuselage and tail plane are built up from Balsa wood and skinned, the wings are cut from foam with normal construction methods as adopted by most models. The smaller version was designed with the fuzz cut down in the center for the wing to mount into (as shown in the engine shot), although this worked well on Mike's smaller version, I copied this with a little caution and added a few strengthening bits, every one who sees it thinks it's a bit weak, but as can be seen it works. The cowl is made from a couple of formers skinned with 1/32” ply and some balsa bit's stuck on and then sanded to shape, glass clothed and sprayed with Flair paint. The plane is covered with ‘Solaspan’, not quite to Ed Dillie's standard but OK from ten meters. Another cheap idea coming up, buy a Daily Express and get the coupon for the free Sunday Express, off to the Photocopiers again - you've got yourself a set of templates for the decals, stick them on the solar trim and cut them out with a pair of scissors you got from the car boot sale, whilst watching 'Neighbours'!.

Now to the good bit!
The plane flew originally on a Laser 150, good performance but John Copp came along with fifty quid so I had to let it go! During the winter of '97, I talked Neil Tidey into building me a Laser 240V, it took a few pints and handing over quite a large lump of dosh, but I must say it was worth it. The Laser 240V is a 40cc Twin mounted as shown in the photo. The exhaust system is made up from the standard quite silencers with ‘Flexhaust’ flexible pipes (as supplied by A.C.G. Sales Ltd.) routed to the under side of the fuz. One important aspect of the cowling is the cooling ducting, air enters the cowl via the two scale triangular ports behind the prop, the air is then ducted via internal baffles onto the fins of the engine. An air scoop on the underside of the cowl pulls air in which is again ducted through baffles this time into the Vee’s. Now the trick is to get the air to flow out effectively! A semicircular hole is cut into the base of the cowl by the fire wall, this being twice the area of the intakes, Around this semicircular hole is a lip which protrudes down becoming the lowest point when viewed from the side of the model. What this does is create a turbulence which pulls the air through the system, and it works a treat keeping the 240V cool. Using the 240V means having two of everything, tanks, carbs, plugs, needle valves even two cylinders. I must admit I was a bit apprehensive, especially with the tuning side of it all, Neil said it wouldn't be a problem, and took my money, I still have the scratch marks on my palm to prove it! I can now say it is fairly easy to tune, as even I can do it. Two plugs are not a problem, just need to make sure both are working on tick over before running up the engine, this can be proven by checking the exhaust gases at the outlet the warm one is working the cold one not if you have a problem reapply the plug lead and check again.

Flying is a transformation from the original 150 now there is unlimited vertical performance even from a slow fly past, (you can't do that with a 2 stroke Noki) just stand it on its tail and open the throttle. The engine is not fully run in yet, but goes well and those that have seen it fly can vouch for that, with the sound being something different.

I hope you all enjoyed this article.

See you on the strip!

Bob Coote